All four of our loved ones swept in late one afternoon in early August to spend a week with us. The sun was just setting over Andraitx – a lovely cala just north of Palma where Mira was docked.
To get into that relaxing vacation mood, we spent our first day relaxing and swimming at the scenic Gran Folies Beach Club in Cala Llamp.
Early the next morning we sailed up to the northwest corner of Mallorca to spend the day and night in Cala Sa Calobra. One of the most stunning anchorages in the Balearics – Sa Calobra is enclosed by steep rocky cliffs and two small pebbly beaches. A footpath and tunnel connect the beaches and allow a gorgeous view of the turquoise, crystal clear water.
We first heard about coasteering in the Azores and were eager to give it a try! Coasteering is exploring the rocky coastline via swimming, cliff jumping, snorkeling and cave exploration. We spent the day with a local guide, José, near Cala Monjo on the southern coast of Mallorca.
Adrian Quetglas, an outstanding restaurant with a Michelin star, was the spot for our last night on Mallorca. His 7 course tasting menu was locally sourced and delicious!
The next day we jumped on a shuttle flight to Barcelona for the last 3 nights of vacation. Filled our days with sightseeing, wandering, shopping, eating, drinking and being silly – it was a perfect vacation!
NEXT POST: Our summer sailing Mira in the Balearic Islands.
So …. here we are in Europe, sailing Mira in the Mediterranean! Our loose plan is to sail Mira to the countries bordering the Mediterranean Sea. Explore their waters and coastlines, but, also leave Mira and discover Europe by car, train or bus.
Our first land adventure was a two week car trip through Portugal. We LOVED Portugal! Driving is definitely the way to go. There are so many little towns and villages just begging for you to drive through and stumble upon – it was magical! The people were super friendly – even to those of us that massacre the Portuguese language. The food and wine were fresh, delicious and inexpensive (!) – what more do you need?
A map of our driving itinerary is below. We left Mira in a marina in Gibraltar and made our way in a big circle – heading north first, briefly through Spain and then followed the coastline all the way around Portugal. Our stops were in Ronda, Seville, Douro Valley (Pinhão), Amarante, Porto, Viana do Castelo, Aveiro, Nazaré, Lisbon, Belém, Sintra, Cascais, Boca do Inferno, Lisbon, Sagres, and Tavira on the Algarve Coast and back to Gibraltar.
is an ancient town that is one of the most visited in southern Spain. Ronda perches dramatically on two sides of a 100 meter deep canyon through which the River Tejo flows.
is the southern Spain that everyone imagines. Perpetually sunny, blue skies, beautiful architecture, with an old bull-fighting arena and ancient ruins. Seville is bustling with activity – busy tapas bars, dramatic flamenco dancing, and live music everywhere. The historic center, where we stayed, is laced with winding alleyways that are magic to explore and get lost in.
The Douro Valley, Portugal
is one of the most ancient wine regions in the world, but actually, the lush green mountains, valleys and the winding river are what I remember most. We stayed in a lovely Quinta (picture a b&b vineyard) perched on the side of the mountain close to the lovely riverside town of Pinhão. A stunning view from our balcony.
is a romantic town whose reflection on the water of the beautiful San Gonzalo bridge drew us in. A walk through the church, squares and terraces of the town preceded a delicious Portuguese lunch of freshly caught, grilled fish.
is a charming city that straddles the River Douro with colorful traditional fishing boats constantly on the move. Its cobblestoned streets are lined with squares of orange-roofed buildings, beautiful monuments and landmarks.
Viana do Castelo, Portugal
is a city situated in a picturesque setting, nestled in between the Rio Lima and the steep Santa Luzia hills and the rugged Atlantic Ocean coastline.
is a city on the west coast built along a natural lagoon called the Ria de Aveiro. Colorful moliceiro canal boats navigate through the middle of the Venice-like historic town.
is one of the most popular seaside resorts on the central western coast of Portugal, known as the Silver Coast. Nazaré is best known for its high breaking waves that form due to a nearby massive underwater canyon. Numerous surfing records have been set here. The most recent unvalidated world record was set in 2018 when a Portuguese surfed an 115 foot wave, trough to crest!
is the perfect combination of fascinating history, trendy culinary scene, vibrant night life, stunning vistas and charming neighborhoods, begging to be explored. We walked our way through Lisbon and enjoyed all of this and more!
was the original location of Lisbon’s shipyards and docks – so, of course, we had to spend the day there. Today it displays the rich seafaring heritage with museums, monuments, and extravagant buildings.
is a delightful town just a day trip from Lisbon. The highlight of Sintra is the Palácio Nacional da Pena – one of Europe’s finest palaces with a brightly-colored exterior and an interior restored to its 1910 appearance.
Cabo da Roca, Portugal
is the westernmost point of mainland Europe, whose coordinates are well-known by those sailing along the coast of Portugal.
is a delightful Portuguese fishing town and is located next to the some of the finest beaches in Portugal. Historically, Cascais was the summer retreat of Portuguese nobility, and today Europeans and Portuguese alike flock to this charming town for their holiday.
is the extreme western tip of the Algarve coast of Portugal. The Algarve Coast contains more than 150 beaches and stretches 200 km along the entire southern coast of Portugal. The beaches in the Algarve range from small rocky beaches surrounded by towering cliffs in the west to long, wide sandy beaches in the east. With its temperate climate and wide range of nature, beaches and partying, the Algarve is a premier summer destination for many Europeans.
is one of the most charming towns in the Algarve. Located on the far eastern end, Tavira reminded us of a quaint, white-washed Greek village.
Tavira in the Algarve was our last stop before heading back to Gibraltar to return to Mira and head off for our next sailing destination – the Balearic Islands – Mallorca, Menorca, Ibiza and Formentera!
Again, we say – the Azores are our favorite place we’ve sailed to – EVER!!
Sao Miguel is the largest island in the Azores, and if you could only visit one of these magnificent 9 islands, we would be hard-pressed, but Sao Miguel is the one to choose. Sao Miguel is the ultimate nature lover’s paradise brimming with velvety green fields, sparkling volcanic lakes and craggy volcanoes. Nature beckons from all sides – begging to be explored, swam and hiked, and it has an international airport. Ponta Delgada, the largest and capital city of the Azores, was the perfect spot to keep Mira and launch more than 7 days of island exploration.
Lagoa das Sete Cidades is the iconic picture everyone sees when they google the Azores. The scene is even more beautiful in person, if you can possibly imagine. Two amazing panoramas capture the entire vista of the 12 km crater of Sete Cidade. Vista do Rei (the King’s view) is the historic view from one end of the twin lake. But, our favorite sight is the Miradouro da Boca do Inferno with a 360 degree view encompassing the twin lake, much of the crater and two other lakes, Rasa and Santiago.
The twin lake with one blue and one green side was born from rainwater that filled its almost perfectly round crater, left behind from a collapsed volcano. But, I prefer the romantic version of the origin of the lake. The tragic love story goes like this. Long ago, a Princess and a shepherd fell madly in love. The Princess had been betrothed to another, and her father, the King, refused to allow them to see each other. At their last heartbreaking meeting, their flood of tears filled the lake at Sete Cidades – a blue side from the tears of the blue-eyed Princess and a green side from the tears of the green-eyed Shepherd. So Sweet!!
Miradouro means viewpoint in Portuguese. All over the island, there are signs that point to the “Miradouro”. Like Pavlov’s dogs, we learned quickly. Upon spying a “Miradouro” sign, we would careen wildly off the winding roads and were continually rewarded with astounding sights.
Why are there so many miradouros? Thousands of years ago, the towering volcanic peaks of Sao Miguel became dormant, collapsed and created yawning craters all over the island. Abundant rainfall filled the craters or “caldeiros” with water, forming magnificent lakes. The ridge lines surrounding the caldeiros, yielded breath-taking viewpoints. Santa Iria, Pico do Barossa, Escalvado, and Lagoa do Fogo, just to name a few of the captivating vistas.
Sao Miguel is like Jurassic Park! The stunning backdrop of Sao Miguel literally dripped bands of color. Lush, green, oversized ferns and trees. Pools and cascading waterfalls in the Caldeira Velha were striped with bright orange minerals. Flowers in the Terra Nostra Garden were brilliant in every color of the rainbow, fed by the volcanic soil. Smooth green glass shimmered in the Lagoa Congro. Hydrangeas as big as my head and dense shrubs taller than Mira. Left us speechless!
Lagoa das Furnas
Parque Natural da Ribeira dos Caldeiroes is a park that stretches along the Ribeira dos Caldeiroes on the slopes of the beautiful mountain range, Serra da Tronqueira. The forestry flourishes with large-sized tree ferns, cedars and hydrangeas in abundance. Abandoned stone water mills dating from the 16th century perch on the edge of the river. Rambunctious waterfalls tumble and cascade over the rocks and boulders. A picturesque spot to launch the drone!
There is 1 Cow for every person on Sao Miguel. Cows and bulls are a big deal in the Azores. There are statues and monuments everywhere. Beef and milk products are used locally and for export. Seafood, unique fruits and vegetables, wine, and tea are some of the other natural resources that the Azores are blessed to have.
I am fascinated by the black and white tile mosaic streets and sidewalks all over the Azores. Turns out that the delicately designed walks are called “Calcada Portuguesa” and can be found throughout Portugal. Talented, and very patient, craftsmen chisel black volcanic basalt and white limestone into tiny flat squares and painstakingly place them on a gravel bedding to form beautiful designs. The Azores have no shortage of volcanic rock – so their patterns seem to be mostly black. And, I loved that every street in Sao Miguel seemed to have its own unique pattern!
Finally, we have an answer!! What is the ONE favorite place we’ve sailed to?? The Azores. Hands down – no contest. If you ever have a chance to visit this spectacular group of islands, GO!!
The Azores is an archipelago composed of nine volcanic islands that sits 2/3rds of the way across the north Atlantic Ocean between Atlanta, GA, and Europe. The islands are 850 miles west of Portugal and have been part of Portugal since the 14th century.
The Azores were born quite dramatically hundreds of thousands of years ago when three tectonic plates crossed paths deep within the Atlantic Ocean and jerked and twisted at their junction. The earth’s core thrust mountainous, rocky volcanoes up through the surface, eventually exploding, spewing ash and lava, forming the spectacularly rocky and fertile Azores.
Within days of our arrival in the Azores, we learned about their unusual climate. Due to their location in the middle of a volatile Atlantic Ocean environment, the weather is difficult to predict and changes dramatically – sometimes hour to hour. Locals are fond of saying that they often experience all 4 seasons in one day in the Azores. It can be cloudy and chilly in the morning and sunny, breezy and warm by lunch and raining by dinner time!
After returning to Sao Miguel from our visit back to the States, we sailed overnight to Terceira and arrived at the port town of Angra do Heroismo, an UNESCO World Heritage site. The marina at the base of this fascinating, preserved old city would be our home for the next days.
A million shades of green! – that’s what our guide, Tanja, explained to us – and, she was SO right. Everywhere we turned – on top of the highest volcanoes and at the bottom of the lowest craters – all carpeted in lush, vibrant shades of green.
Bulls and cows are a big deal here in the Azores, and on Terceira you must see the running of the bulls – we were told. So, one evening, we dutifully headed off to the tiny fishing village of Sao Mateus. What we discovered was a very festive event where men, women and children line the streets behind protective barriers and pile onto the steps of the town cathedral. Food trucks, jam-packed with local food and drink, crowd the streets. We eagerly joined the throngs – eating and drinking and waiting. Glenn even tried percebes which is a local delicacy – goose barnacles.
Eventually, a huge black bull, followed by five festively dressed men clinging to his very long leash, galloped down the street in front of us. What ensued was actually not a “running” of the bull — but a “teasing” of the bull. The Tournedos a Corda would alternately pull on the tether to direct the bull and run very fast when the bull advanced. Other “brave” spectators would venture down to street level to tease the bull and usually ended up frantically climbing to the top of the fence. It was quite an event – one we will never forget. But, Terceira has nothing on Pamplona!
Hiking along the rocky cliffs with views of the sparkly blue waters of the north central part of the island was one of our favorite days on Terceira. The Baias de Agualva trail follows along the jagged coast and alternately curves out onto peninsulas like the picturesque Ponta do Misterio and runs back down the rough hillsides.
Algar do Carvão is one of the few volcanoes in the world where people can visit, and the only volcano in the world where you can go inside the chimney and chambers. A rare phenomenon occurred thousands of years ago that left the volcano extinct and empty and allows visitors inside without getting burned alive. We literally gasped upon descending into the volcano. Drippy, stone steps circle down into the volcano ending in a clear rainwater pool and stalactites and stalagmites protruding from cavern walls.
Furnas do Enxofre are a collection of fumaroles which are geothermal cracks in the earth where plumes of smelly gas escape. For us, it was just another beautiful example of Mother Nature’s handiwork on Terceira.
Travel for us would not be complete without local food tasting. Terceira was no exception. We received recommendations for several “don’t miss” dishes. Some we enjoyed – others we were just happy for the experience!
The Azores are engulfed by the hammering, frothy surf of the Atlantic Ocean. But, because of their volcanic origin, long, sandy beaches cannot be found. In fact, locals and visitors alike have learned to adapt. We were quite surprised to see sunbathers lounging lazily on their towels spread on concrete. Different, but it works – especially when their view is focused on the natural ocean pools carved out by the pounding of the Atlantic on their rocky coastline.
NEXT BLOG — THE ISLAND OF SAO MIGUEL – THE HIGHLIGHT OF THE AZORES!!
Rested and excited after spending some weeks exploring the Azores, we began focusing our energy on completing the final leg of our Atlantic crossing to Europe.
Below is the passage summary and Pam’s diary of Leg 3 – Azores to Portugal to Gibraltar
Depart Ponta Delgada, Sao Miguel, Azores June 18, 2019
Arrive Lagos, Portugal June 24, 2019
Depart Lagos, Portugal June 25, 2029
Arrive Gibraltar June 27, 2019
Total distance 1041 nm (861 nm to Lagos plus 180 nm to Gibraltar)
Average speed 6.4 kn
Max speed 10.1 kn
Max wind speed 22 kn
18 June Tues – Glenn and I had spent 15 wonderful days exploring these amazing islands (Azores posts coming) and it was time to prepare for the completion of our crossing to Europe. Several days earlier, Glenn awoke early to meet our friend Jim at the Ponta Delgada Airport. He had flown in from Atlanta to join us for the passage to Lagos. Waiting for a good weather window, had given me a few day to provision and prepare meals for the trip. We also wanted to treat Jim to some of the highlights of Sao Miguel including a final dinner at A Tasca.
We cast off the dock lines at 4:45pm on the 18th and said good bye (for now) to the Azores. The skies were overcast and light rain fell and the forecast called for light winds for most of the passage. Mira was loaded with fuel and could motor the entire way if necessary. Motored at 2200 rpm along southeast coast of Sao Miguel.
19 June Wed – Beautiful clear blue skies under high pressure ridge. Sunny. Cool. Dolphins visited us while we cruised in flat calm water over 16,500 feet deep.
And again… still averaging less than 6 knots one engine at a time. Current from the west helping boost our speed a bit. Pretty sunset. Beautiful orange Moon rising every night around 10:30pm. Made chicken a la king for dinner.
20 June Thur – Quiet day. No wind. Motoring. Sunny but not too hot. I sat on front of boat for awhile. Worked on blog posts from Azores and Portugal travel plans. Beef stroganoff for dinner. Wind picked up some in night. Only to 10 knots but bumpy.
21 June Fri – This morning wind continued to build and came close to 15kn by afternoon. Halfway day…Made brownies! Ran generator. Made water. Showers for all!. Changed from due east course to northeast towards Lagos. Making 7-8 knots headway. Should arrive Monday sometime. Wind averaged 18ish through the night. I started to feel queasy but heated up my boat lasagna for the guys.
22 June Sat – Winds averaging closer to 19kn. Seas calmer. Mix of sun and lots of clouds. I took a dose of stugeron to stave off seasickness for the first time in my life! Nice sailing but seas are choppy. Still on target for Monday morning arrival. Made a sausage broccoli rice parmigiana cheese dish for dinner and afterwards we continued our Rummikub tournament. Got very cloudy and hazy around dinner. Winds died during night. Motor on at midnight. Quiet night. We spent most night watches watching shows or movies on the iPad.
23 June Sun – Still cloudy and a little rain. Winds only 5-6 knots. Seas still choppy. Boats beginning to appear. 1/2 mile miss of 900 ft tanker on my watch…. Busy busy. Ran generator. Made banana bread and washed hair! Spa day for Pam. Winds still light. Sun peeking through. Both engines on – trying to make Lagos tomorrow morning. Glenn and I continued our dominoes tournament while Jim was heads down reading his textbook for a finance class he’s teaching. Glenn worked on watermaker projects.
Pizza & salad for dinner. More Rummikub variations. Little wind tonight. Cloudy and cool. Both engines still on. Main sail set tonight. Quiet night. Lots of dodging of huge ships in the traffic separation zones as we approached Sagres, Portugal.
24 June Mon – Mira’s first glimpse of mainland Europe – sighted Portugal around 8:15 am! And, also exciting, cell coverage by 730 am!! Beautiful cliff and beach view of Ponta da Piedade on our sail into Lagos. Arrived Marina Lagos and tied up to our berth at noon.
Had lunch in the marina at Quay Bar & Bistro. Jim took 3 pm train to Lisbon for flight home tomorrow. Naps then explored the town. Lagos is a great vacation beach town. Sunset drinks on rooftop of Lagos Avenida Hotel. Then more exploration. Dinner at Don Sebastiao in Old Town. Great recommendation by our son and his wife. Best swordfish ever!!
25 June Tues – Up early. Beautiful morning. Wandered the streets of Lagos. Igresa de San Antonio, Pasteleria Gomba, Central Padareria, and Mercado Municipal. Bought awesome swordfish steaks.
Welcomed our returning crew, Diego, back on Mira at 11am. He would join us for the final passage to Gibraltar. Went to grocery. Dinner at Pizzaria in town. Left fuel dock by 815 pm. Light winds. Motoring on my watch. Lots of fishing boats milling around. No wind all night.
26 June Wed – My 6 am watch same. Still no wind. Fog rolled in for few hours in middle of day. Quiet night through the Straits. Tons of cargo and tanker ships but they stayed in their traffic lanes.
27 June Thurs – We stayed close to shore and rode the current and tide into Europe! Arrived in dark and zigzagged through the cargo ships at anchor in the Bay of Algeciras and into the Queensway Quay Marina reception dock at 415 am in the fog! Harbormaster knocked on hull at 8 am. Need to move to our berth soon. Moved to our convenient berth – close to restaurants!
Cleaned boat and galley. I walked through city to tourist office and supermarket. Dinner at The Landings on water.
28 June Fri – Walked to Main Street. Taxi tour to the Pillars of Hercules view of Morocco and Algeciras then St Michaels Cave, monkeys and then to Great Siege Tunnels for view over Spain and airport. Then walk through Main Street and Gibraltar museum then lunch at The Jury cafe and wine bar. Commonwealth Park.
Back to boat. Packing etc. After a final steak dinner aboard Mira, we said goodbye (for now) to Diego early the next morning as he began his long trip home to Argentina. Diego was a great crew and had become a good friend. Glenn and I were finally in Europe and excited to hit the road exploring Portugal by car for a few weeks.
In case you missed the previous post, my crew and I arrived into Horta, Faial, Azores, on May 15th after 14 days at sea on our sail eastward across the North Atlantic from Bermuda.
After a one day stop in Horta to celebrate the crossing, we departed at 11:00 for the 150 mile sail to the largest island in the Azores, Sao Miguel, home to the only international airport at Ponta Delgada. Winds were 20kn on the beam as we left Faial on the horizon.
The sail to Ponta Delgada was 24 hours overnight with gradually lightening winds. I had agreed to take one of the crew from sv Salana with us to Ponta Delgada as he and my crew all had flights to catch. Saul rewarded our generosity with some great drone footage of Mira as we sailed past the coast of Sao Miguel.
Arriving at noon the next day (May 17th) under light winds, we tied up at Marina Ponta Delgada and worked on cleaning and closing up Mira before the crew’s flights and my two week trip home.
After a final dinner out at a traditional Azorean restaurant, I said farewell to Diego, Javier and Saul. Mira had sailed 2,149 miles since departing Tortola in the BVIs on April 21st, and she (and I) needed a rest. Two days later (May 19th), I left Mira securely moored in the marina and caught my flight back to Atlanta.
I would be soon returning with Pam to sail and explore the Azores before we completed Leg 3 of our Atlantic crossing to mainland Europe. Look for our posts on our favorite Azores islands.
In April, we crossed the Anegada Passage in an uneventful 90 mile overnight downwind sail from St. Maarten to Tortola. The British Virgin Islands are always a favorite with our family and on Mira. In fact, we started our sailing charter lives in the BVIs. So, it’s appropriate that this would be our last stop in the Caribbean for awhile! Our good friends, Lori and Mark, were coming to visit for a few nights also, and we were excited to show them some of our favorite spots.
Lori and Mark arrived in the late afternoon to our slip in Nanny Cay Marina on Tortola. We were off early the next morning for the bouncy, up-wind slog in the Sir Francis Drake Channel to visit the iconic Baths on Virgin Gorda. Following a leisurely lunch on board, and we headed off to Marina Cay. Happy hour and dinner at the somewhat reconstructed Pusser’s was a perfect ending to our sailing day. Our third day started off with some amazing snorkeling at George Dog. The conditions and visibility were perfect. A quick sail over to Monkey Point on Guana Island ended with lunch on board and another perfect Caribbean snorkel off the boat. We motor-sailed down the back side of Tortola to the palm-tree ringed, white sand beach of Cane Garden Bay for the night and dinner at Paradise Club Sports Bar. The next morning we took off around the southern end of Tortola to snorkel the Indians and settled into our anchorage for the day and night in secluded Privateer Bay on Norman Island. A lazy afternoon was spent snorkeling the Caves off Treasure Point and swimming off the boat. Delicious Caribbean curry chicken on the boat was our last dinner. It was hard to drop them off the next morning for their ferry back to St. Thomas. But, we were so thankful for the chance to hop through the BVI one last time!
Then it was back to reality, full-on ocean passage preparation began in earnest. At the end of April, Mira would make her longest off-shore passage yet!
Lori and Mark relaxed and happy in vacation mode.
Our favorite picture-taking spot in the Baths on Virgin Gorda.
Our anchorage in Marina Cay
First mate maneuvers Mira to pick up a mooring ball.
One of the most peaceful, beautiful anchorages in Privateer Bay, and it is right around the boulders from the very busy Bight at Norman’s Island. We spent an entire day and night here – swimming, snorkeling the caves and rocks all along the bay.
Something tells me that Lori will be back for another visit on Mira – maybe in Europe???