Mira settles in for the winter at Yacht Port Cartagena, Spain

With the Med sailing season coming to an end, we bid a sad farewell to the idyllic Balearic Islands in early October. Surviving these popular islands in August and September had been easier than we expected. We slipped the buoy lines at S’Espalmador and set a southwesterly course for the overnight passage to the Spanish mainland where we had booked a winter berth at Yacht Port Cartagena.

Overnight sail from Formentera to the mainland of Spain.

Having temporarily berthed there during the summer, we knew it offered a well protected harbor, reasonable winter rates, friendly staff and a diverse vibrant live-a-board community.

The city of Cartagena is located in the southeastern Spain region of Campo de Cartagena and is the country’s six largest city.  A natural harbor, it has a long history having been inhabited by the Phoenicians, Romans, Vandals, Visigoths, Muslims and the christian Kingdom of Castile; all of which left their mark.  We experienced the modern Port of Cartagena – which is the home of Spain’s Mediterranean navy, a major cargo terminal, commercial shipyard, cruise destination, and recreational boating center.

Beautiful night view of Cartagena from Mira’s bow in YPC.
Amazing sunsets in the marina.
Huge cruise ships were frequent visitors to our marina.

Mira and crew arrived in Cartagena with a long to-do list – beginning with a haul out at the adjacent ASCAR boat yard which was built originally for repair of a local fishing fleet. The yard had a good reputation for professional work at reasonable rates and, most importantly, had a travel lift large enough to lift Mira. She received new anti-foul paint, new zinc anodes, and small, gelcoat repairs.

Job done, it felt great to have Mira safely back in the water.  After our time in the loud dirty boat yard, we were eager for one last sail before our winter hiatus.  Further west from Cartagena we dropped the hook for the last time in the soft sandy bottom at La Azohia, a quaint little beach town.  Water was still warm enough for swimming and kayaking along massive cliffs in brilliantly clear turquoise water.

A short hike along the peninsula led to an ancient military outpost and a spectacular view of the beach and Mira in the distance.

The next day, with winds on the nose, we motored back to Cartagena and tucked Mira into her berth for the winter.

We had budgeted about a month’s time to explore Cartagena and the surrounding Spanish region before flying home to the States.  Time passed quickly as we balanced fun while ticking off our long list of accumulated boat projects and winterization procedures.

A stroll down the Calle Mayor – main shopping district
Giant ficus trees in the Plaza San Francisco
Where the locals (and us) shop for fresh produce, meats and fish in Cartagena.
Awesome museum of underwater archeology
Cartagena’s amphitheaters – Spanish and Roman

A massive cleaning of the entire boat consumed several days.

The captain attempting a double-braid eye splice. Sails removed and stowed in the third cabin for the winter.

Repairing the cockpit canopy enclosure.

We did manage to complete our projects while making time for marina fun, new friends, and shenanigans.

The weekly Sunday barbecue for cruisers.

An old friend from home dropped by for a weekend.

Birthday celebration on a neighboring catamaran

In our time in Cartagena, we met some wonderful people. Kindred spirits from all over the world.  We shared stories, maintenance tips, played games, dined, drank and laughed until the wee hours.  Sadly, we all have our own schedules and destinations – so we never know if or when we might see folks again …. social media has become a wonderful tool for far-flung sailor buddies to stay connected.  Fair winds and we will never forget you! Such is the nomadic sailing life ….


Ibiza – Our Beautiful Shelter from a Storm

Ibiza, another one of the Balearic Islands of Spain, is well-known for its lively nightlife and its outposts of major European nightclubs – especially in the towns of San Antonio and Ibiza. But, there are also quiet villages and beautiful sandy coves surrounded by pine-covered hills on Ibiza. We were in search of those during our two week visit in September!

Bright blue summer skies and barely a whisper of wind greeted us at 6 am when we left Port Andraitx on Mallorca. A quiet motor-sail followed for the next 10 hours across the Balearic Sea to our first anchorage on Ibiza at Ses Salines. Little did we know that we dropped anchor on one of the most lively and popular beaches on the island. But, we were looking for a quieter spot – so we were off again early the next morning.

Es Vedrá is a majestic rock that juts into the sky off the west coast of Ibiza. It looked nothing like its mysterious reputation when we first saw it on a sparkling clear blue day. Legends of the island of Es Vedrá include UFO sightings and magnetic instruments gone awry due to the magnetism surrounding this spot. Today the island is still a meeting place for meditation and healing energy.

We just enjoyed the beauty and quiet of a solitary anchorage for a few hours.

Es Vedrá is not a suitable nighttime anchorage, so we sailed easily back to Ibiza and anchored in Cala D’Hort – and still had front row seats to one of Ibiza’s most beautiful natural spectacles!

Beautiful sunset view from Restaurant El Carmen in Cala D’Hort

Another beautiful sunset from Cala Jondal – our next night’s anchorage

We continued up the west coast of Ibiza and discovered a jewel of a cove – Cala Portinax with beautiful beaches and a protected swimming area.  Very developed, but pleasant in a busy, summer holiday kind of way. We were able to practice our precision anchoring also.  There were only a few small sandy spots suitable among lots of posidonia, Mediterranean sea grass.

Sunset over Portinax from the Restaurante Bahia.

We woke up Sunday morning to predictions of a massive summer storm headed towards the Balearics at the end of the week. Knowing that there are very few marinas on ibiza – we made a few phone calls and luckily found a spot in Marina Santa Eulalia. Ultimately, we were forced to stay in the marina for 7 days – waiting for the weather to pass. Luckily, there were lots of other friendly cruisers there, and the coastal town of Santa Eulalia was adorable.

View from Mira before the weather set in.

Before the weather settled in, we were able to explore the town and also nearby Ibiza Town.

The coastline of the beach town of Santa Eulalia

View of Santa Eulalia from the Puig de Missa
The fortress walls surrounding ancient Ibiza Town
View of Ibiza Town and its harbor

A few days after we were settled in at the Marina Santa Eulalia, the forecasted ominous weather hit. We were very uncomfortable for two days or so – happy to be in a marina, despite being a little precarious just outside the seawall.

As soon as the weather broke, we headed across from the Balearic Islands to Cartagena, a coastal town on the mainland of Spain.



Menorca, the quiet Balearic Island

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Our next stop in the Balearic Islands was Menorca.  Twenty-five miles northeast of Mallorca, Menorca is the 2nd largest of the Balearics and has a reputation for being a bit quieter and less frenetic than the other Spanish islands. Still ultra-popular with tourists, but with a more laid-back vibe. We fell in love with its beautiful beaches, isolated coves, and sweeping views from massive stone cliffs.

We raised anchor around 8:30 am from Pollensa, Mallorca, and motor-sailed (once again) until we reached Menorca in Cala Degollador – just outside of the town of Ciutadella – well before sunset.

Cala Degollador was partially protected from the 15-20 knots of SE winds we were experiencing, but the massive ferries that rolled in from Barcelona and Mallorca kicked up huge waves making this anchorage a bit rolly – even for our catamaran! The monohulls around us were really rocking!

Our first sunset in Menorca.

Ciutadella is a beautiful historic town known for its old quarter and medieval cobblestoned streets. Its buildings are an eclectic mix of Italian architecture – both baroque and gothic style.

The view of the harbour in Ciutadella from the town perched above.

Menorca’s coastline is peppered with dozens of calas (coves) to explore. Some calas are narrow with soaring cliffs while others are wide and open with sandy beaches and bottoms. We started our tour by heading east along the southern coast.

Towering rocky cliffs with sparkling blue-green water.

A strong NE wind was forecast for the next days so we searched for a cala with lots of room to anchor and preferably a sandy bottom! Cala Son Saura seemed to fit the bill and fortunately, when we arrived there was plenty of room in the wide open cala. We had a delightful evening on Mira entertaining a German couple and a Spanish couple we met while swimming around the cala. The next day – hordes of sailboats descended upon Son Saura – all looking for safe refuge from the forecasted winds.

Sunset in Cala Son Saura on our first quiet night.
Sunset in the same cala on the next night – packed with dozens of boats seeking safe harbor.

Once the weather cleared, we continued along the south coast and discovered Cala En Porter. Rounding a towering cliff from the sea, we literally gasped. Vertical, imposing white limestone lined a cove filled with crystal clear turquoise water. At the end of the cala was a big, white sandy beach with the town balanced up on one side.

As we nosed our way into Cala En Porter that first morning, there was not a lot of room to anchor. Lots of sailboats packed into this beautiful cala on this sunny August day.  We were forced to drop our anchor in 45 ft of water near the back of the pack. But, our trusty Rocna held easily and firmly, and we settled in to enjoy.  The next 3 days were spent paddle boarding, snorkeling, swimming, and sunning – loving life in the Balearics!

Cala En Porter
The town and beach of Cala En Porter

Cova D’en Xoroi is a natural cave carved into the cliffside around the corner from our cala. Legend tells the store of  a turkish pirate who hid in the cave for years, but upon being discovered, jumped to the sea and was never seen again. Today, there are a series of outdoor bars and terraces connected by caverns and corridors. The view of the Mediterranean Sea is spectacular!

Cova D’en Xoroi

Our Menorcan sailing journey continued up the east coast – stopping at Isla Colom, a small natural island just off the coast of the popular resort village of Es Grau. Again, we were able to spend several quiet days swimming, exploring the small, rocky beaches and hills of Isla Colom.

Sunset over Isla Colom

On the north coast, we arrived at Fornells, a beautiful fishing village located in a deep protected bay and was our next night’s anchorage.

Seafood dinner out in Fornells at Sa Xerxa

Once again Mediterranean weather intervened, nasty summer thunderstorms with high winds, heavy rain and lightning were predicted so we weighed anchor and headed quickly down the west coast back to Cala Degollador with a plan to try to med-moor to the cliffs for more protection. Our first experience of this type began with Glenn in the dinghy to attach two mooring lines through the holes in the rocks while Pam manned the helm onboard Mira.  Once back aboard Mira, Glenn dropped the anchor and backed up to the cliff. Pam jumped off the stern to swim the mooring lines back to the boat and tying them off – all in all, about an hour of time – but, Success!! Mira was anchored firmly and had 2 stern lines attached to the cliff. We were very proud of our team work and new skill.

Once the storms passed through and the weather cleared, we said good-bye to Menorca and were off to our next destination!


Mallorca in the Balearic Islands, Spain

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The Balearic Islands lie in a cluster 50 miles east of the Spanish mainland in the Mediterranean. At the end of July, we sailed from Cartagena on the southern coast of Spain to the largest of the Balearics, Mallorca. We skipped over the westernmost islands of Ibiza and Formentera, knowing that we would visit later in the summer. The quiet motor-sail was 196 miles and took us about 30 hours.

We fell in love with Mallorca almost immediately! It is a beautiful island of stunning contrasts and deserved to be explored by our sailboat as well as by land. In the north, the towering Tramuntana mountains rise straight from the sea, and in the south, rolling hills, sandy beaches and white limestone cliffs dominate. In addition to the amazing natural beauty, Mallorca also features the cosmopolitan city of Palma, and quaint port towns with cobblestoned streets, casual restaurants, bars, and jaw-dropping views. The port towns of Andraitx, Soller and Pollensa were just some of our favorites!

We spent almost a month sailing and exploring Mallorca, but can’t wait to return!

Sant Elm, a picturesque fishing village with turquoise water and a white sand beach, was our first anchorage in Mallorca.

Very happy for his first dip in the blue-green water of the Balearic Islands.

Our first week on Mallorca we sailed completely around the island, poking our “nose” in the stunning calas (coves) that dot the entire breathtaking coastline.

Cala Llombards
Cala Santanyí
Just a few of the dramatic mansions on the cliffs of the east coast of Mallorca.
Nestled in the pine trees of the Pollensa coastline, the Hotel Formentor peeked into our anchorage for the night. Famous for entertaining European royalty since the 1920’s, the Hotel was quite unassuming, but so fortunate to have a spectacular natural surrounding – as were we!!

Sailing out of the Bay of Pollensa around the barren bluffs of the northwest coast of Mallorca
Absolutely no wind afforded us the chance to fly the drone off the boat – a risky proposition when the winds are strong!

Cala Sa Calobra – the most spectacular and famous cove in Mallorca. Surrounded by vertical cliffs with a tiny rocky beach at one end, it is one of our favorites. Packed with visitors and boats during the day, the picturesque cala becomes calm and peaceful at night.
The narrow pebbly beach at Sa Calobra is squeezed between the soaring cliffs.

Reddish-orange ribbons of sunset at anchor in Sa Calobra.

Our land exploration of Mallorca began with a walking tour of Palma, the largest city and capital of the Balearic Islands. At first glance Palma seems quite modern and cosmopolitan, but as we wandered into the heart of Palma, the town became much more interesting. From the awe-inspiring Gothic Cathedral to narrow, winding streets to markets filled with produce and local products to delicious local restaurants – there was something to see at every turn.

The view of the city of Palma from the Mirador Parc De La Mar.
The Royal Palace of La Almudaina
The fountains in the gardens of the Hort del Rei near The Almudaina
The Santa Iglesia Catedral de Mallorca
The streets of Palma

Every imaginable kind & color of fruit, vegetable & meat at Palma’s Mercado Olivar.

Mira was nestled in Puerto Soller, one of our favorite anchorages in Mallorca. It is a cozy beach town encircling a perfect turquoise bay. Protected from the sometimes vicious winds of the Mediterranean, Soller is a sailor’s heaven and haven.

Determined to continue exploring Mallorca by land as well as by sea, we rented a Vespa for two days to tour the renowned west coast of Mallorca.

On the first day, we started in Soller and headed north through amazing towns and the craziest, most stressful, twisting road we’ve ever seen!


This was our view of Puerto Soller from one of the mountain roads high in the hills.
Another amazing shot of one of our favorite places in Mallorca.
Reservoir Cuber and de Gorg Blau

The best paella we’ve had in Spain at the Restaurant Es  Vergeret, perched on a cliff high above Cala Tuent.
The view of Cala Tuent from Es Vergeret.

Our second day of Vespa touring we headed south from Soller. Narrow, cliff-side roads wound us through some amazing coastal Mallorcan towns.

The town of Deia
The town of Valdemossa
Produce markets are sprinkled through the towns.
The town of Soller.

Magnificent sunset at anchor in Puerto Soller ended our beautiful day of Vespa touring.
One of our last sunset cocktails in our favorite town, Puerto Andraitx.
Our last anchorage in Mallorca near the port town of Pollensa.



Sailing Mallorca and Touring Barcelona with the Family

All four of our loved ones swept in late one afternoon in early August to spend a week with us. The sun was just setting over Andraitx – a lovely cala just north of Palma where Mira was docked.

Kicked off their first night with a delicious seafood meal and a stunning sunset at Rocamar, perched on the edge of the waterfront in the town of Port Andraitx.

To get into that relaxing vacation mood, we spent our first day relaxing and swimming at the scenic Gran Folies Beach Club in Cala Llamp.

There was swimming, relaxing, and cliff jumping.

Early the next morning we sailed up to the northwest corner of Mallorca to spend the day and night in Cala Sa Calobra. One of the most stunning anchorages in the Balearics – Sa Calobra is enclosed by steep rocky cliffs and two small pebbly beaches. A footpath and tunnel connect the beaches and allow a gorgeous view of the turquoise, crystal clear water.

A view of Mira through the tunnel’s window.

Perfect sunset with flat calm water in our anchorage for the night.

We first heard about coasteering in the Azores and were eager to give it a try! Coasteering is exploring the rocky coastline via swimming, cliff jumping, snorkeling and cave exploration. We spent the day with a local guide, José, near Cala Monjo on the southern coast of Mallorca.

No comment about why Pam is conspicuously absent ……..

Adrian Quetglas, an outstanding restaurant with a Michelin star, was the spot for our last night on Mallorca. His 7 course tasting menu was locally sourced and delicious!

The next day we jumped on a shuttle flight to Barcelona for the last 3 nights of vacation. Filled our days with sightseeing, wandering, shopping, eating, drinking and being silly – it was a perfect vacation!

Amazing panorama of Barcelona and its port from Montjuic.
At Rocambolesc – who knew they gave Michelin stars for ice cream?
Late night drinks at Boadas – cocktails since 1933.
Early morning excursion to one of Gaudi’s prizes – Park Güell.
Breath-taking exterior of La Sagrada Familia
Kaleidoscope of colors in the now finally complete interior of Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia.
Dinner at La Peninsular on the fringes of Barcelonetta.
Gaudi’s Casa Batlló
Sharing an ice-cold sangria at La Boqueria on Las Ramblas after a long day of sightseeing.
World famous Paella from Barcelona in a waterside restaurant.
Clearly a very fun late night at Eclipse on the rooftop overlooking Barcelona harbor.

NEXT POST: Our summer sailing Mira in the Balearic Islands. 

Sao Miguel, Jewel of the Azores, June 2019

Again, we say – the Azores are our favorite place we’ve sailed to – EVER!!

Sao Miguel is the largest island in the Azores, and if you could only visit one of these magnificent 9 islands, we would be hard-pressed, but Sao Miguel is the one to choose. Sao Miguel is the ultimate nature lover’s paradise brimming with velvety green fields, sparkling volcanic lakes and craggy volcanoes. Nature beckons from all sides – begging to be explored, swam and hiked, and it has an international airport. Ponta Delgada, the largest and capital city of the Azores, was the perfect spot to keep Mira and launch more than 7 days of island exploration.

Mira’s home in the Marina Ponta Delgada.
Ponta Delgada, historic capitol city, that is a study in black and white.
View of the city from the top of the bell tower.
Church of San Sebastian in downtown Ponta Delgada.

Lagoa das Sete Cidades is the iconic picture everyone sees when they google the Azores. The scene is even more beautiful in person, if you can possibly imagine. Two amazing panoramas capture the entire vista of the 12 km crater of Sete Cidade. Vista do Rei (the King’s view) is the historic view from one end of the twin lake. But, our favorite sight is the Miradouro da Boca do Inferno with a 360 degree view encompassing the twin lake, much of the crater and two other lakes, Rasa and Santiago.

The twin lake with one blue and one green side was born from rainwater that filled its almost perfectly round crater, left behind from a collapsed volcano. But, I prefer the romantic version of the origin of the lake. The tragic love story goes like this. Long ago, a Princess and a shepherd fell madly in love. The Princess had been betrothed to another, and her father, the King, refused to allow them to see each other. At their last heartbreaking meeting, their flood of tears filled the lake at Sete Cidades – a blue side from the tears of the blue-eyed Princess and a green side from the tears of the green-eyed Shepherd. So Sweet!!

Miradouro means viewpoint in Portuguese. All over the island, there are signs that point to the “Miradouro”.  Like Pavlov’s dogs, we learned quickly. Upon spying a “Miradouro” sign, we would careen wildly off the winding roads and were continually rewarded with astounding sights.

Why are there so many miradouros? Thousands of years ago, the towering volcanic peaks of Sao Miguel became dormant, collapsed and created yawning craters all over the island. Abundant rainfall filled the craters or “caldeiros” with water, forming magnificent lakes. The ridge lines surrounding the caldeiros, yielded breath-taking viewpoints. Santa Iria, Pico do Barossa, Escalvado, and Lagoa do Fogo, just to name a few of the captivating vistas.

Sao Miguel is like Jurassic Park! The stunning backdrop of Sao Miguel literally dripped bands of color. Lush, green, oversized ferns and trees. Pools and cascading waterfalls in the Caldeira Velha were striped with bright orange minerals. Flowers in the Terra Nostra Garden were brilliant in every color of the rainbow, fed by the volcanic soil. Smooth green glass shimmered in the Lagoa Congro. Hydrangeas as big as my head and dense shrubs taller than Mira. Left us speechless!

Lagoa das Furnas 

Parque Natural da Ribeira dos Caldeiroes is a park that stretches along the Ribeira dos Caldeiroes on the slopes of the beautiful mountain range, Serra da Tronqueira. The forestry flourishes with large-sized tree ferns, cedars and hydrangeas in abundance. Abandoned stone water mills dating from the 16th century perch on the edge of the river. Rambunctious waterfalls tumble and cascade over the rocks and boulders. A picturesque spot to launch the drone!

There is 1 Cow for every person on Sao Miguel. Cows and bulls are a big deal in the Azores. There are statues and monuments everywhere. Beef and milk products are used locally and for export. Seafood, unique fruits and vegetables, wine, and tea are some of the other natural resources that the Azores are blessed to have.

 I am fascinated by the black and white tile mosaic streets and sidewalks all over the Azores. Turns out that the delicately designed walks are called “Calcada Portuguesa” and can be found throughout Portugal. Talented, and very patient, craftsmen chisel black volcanic basalt and white limestone into tiny flat squares and painstakingly place them on a gravel bedding to form beautiful designs. The Azores have no shortage of volcanic rock – so their patterns seem to be mostly black. And, I loved that every street in Sao Miguel seemed to have its own unique pattern!


Terceira, Azores, June 2019

Finally, we have an answer!! What is the ONE favorite place we’ve sailed to?? The Azores. Hands down – no contest. If you ever have a chance to visit this spectacular group of islands, GO!!

The Azores is an archipelago composed of nine volcanic islands that sits 2/3rds of the way across the north Atlantic Ocean between Atlanta, GA, and Europe.  The islands are 850 miles west of Portugal and have been part of Portugal since the 14th century.

The Azores were born quite dramatically hundreds of thousands of years ago when three tectonic plates crossed paths deep within the Atlantic Ocean and jerked and twisted at their junction. The earth’s core thrust mountainous, rocky volcanoes up through the surface, eventually exploding, spewing ash and lava, forming the spectacularly rocky and fertile Azores.

Within days of our arrival in the Azores, we learned about their unusual climate. Due to their location in the middle of a volatile Atlantic Ocean environment, the weather is difficult to predict and changes dramatically – sometimes hour to hour.  Locals are fond of saying that they often experience all 4 seasons in one day in the Azores. It can be cloudy and chilly in the morning and sunny, breezy and warm by lunch and raining by dinner time!

After returning to Sao Miguel from our visit back to the States, we sailed overnight to Terceira and arrived at the port town of Angra do Heroismo, an UNESCO World Heritage site. The marina at the base of this fascinating, preserved old city would be our home for the next days.

Quaint, cobblestoned streets lined with mosaic sidewalks.

A million shades of green! – that’s what our guide, Tanja, explained to us – and, she was SO right. Everywhere we turned – on top of the highest volcanoes and at the bottom of  the lowest craters – all carpeted in lush, vibrant shades of green.

Bulls and cows are a big deal here in the Azores, and on Terceira you must see the running of the bulls – we were told. So, one evening, we dutifully headed off to the tiny fishing village of Sao Mateus. What we discovered was a very festive event where men, women and children line the streets behind protective barriers and pile onto the steps of the town cathedral. Food trucks, jam-packed with local food and drink, crowd the streets. We eagerly joined the throngs – eating and drinking and waiting.  Glenn even tried percebes which is a local delicacy – goose barnacles.
Eventually, a huge black bull, followed by five festively dressed men clinging to his very long leash, galloped down the street in front of us. What ensued was actually not a “running” of the bull — but a “teasing” of the bull. The Tournedos a Corda would alternately pull on the tether to direct the bull and run very fast when the bull advanced. Other “brave” spectators would venture down to street level to tease the bull and usually ended up frantically climbing to the top of the fence. It was quite an event – one we will never forget. But, Terceira has nothing on Pamplona!

A few of the “brave” men teasing the poor bull.
The bull literally at the end of his rope.
Yes, we were enjoying the party more than the bull teasing.

Hiking along the rocky cliffs with views of the sparkly blue waters of the north central part of the island was one of our favorite days on Terceira. The Baias de Agualva trail follows along the jagged coast and alternately curves out onto peninsulas like the picturesque Ponta do Misterio and runs back down the rough hillsides.

Algar do Carvão is one of the few volcanoes in the world where people can visit, and the only volcano in the world where you can go inside the chimney and chambers. A rare phenomenon occurred thousands of years ago that left the volcano extinct and empty and allows visitors inside without getting burned alive. We literally gasped upon descending into the volcano. Drippy, stone steps circle down into the volcano ending in a clear rainwater pool and stalactites and stalagmites protruding from cavern walls.

Furnas do Enxofre are a collection of fumaroles which are geothermal cracks in the earth where plumes of smelly gas escape. For us, it was just another beautiful example of Mother Nature’s handiwork on Terceira.

Travel for us would not be complete without local food tasting. Terceira was no exception. We received recommendations for several “don’t miss” dishes. Some we enjoyed – others we were just happy for the experience!

Caldeirada de Peixe – fish and potato stew. Delicious except for the conger eel head.
Alcatra – beef stewed all day in a clay pot accented with wine, onions, bacon, garlic and bay leaves. Delicious – like pot roast.
Lapas, an Azorean ocean delicacy, are grilled in the shell with butter, garlic and wine, and were high on our list to try in Terceira. They were indeed delicious – especially with bread dipped in the delectable sauce. Looking similar to clams, we were definitely not happy to learn that they are actually sea snails.
Much easier to enjoy were the Bolos D’Amelia, a delicious dense molasses pastry spiced with cinnamon and nutmeg.

The Azores are engulfed by the hammering, frothy surf of the Atlantic Ocean. But, because of their volcanic origin, long, sandy beaches cannot be found. In fact, locals and visitors alike have learned to adapt. We were quite surprised to see sunbathers lounging lazily on their towels spread on concrete. Different, but it works – especially when their view is focused on the natural ocean pools carved out by the pounding of the Atlantic on their rocky coastline.


Atlantic Crossing – Leg 3 Azores to Portugal and Gibraltar

Rested and excited after spending some weeks exploring the Azores, we began focusing our energy on completing the final leg of our Atlantic crossing to Europe.

Below is the passage summary and Pam’s diary of Leg 3 – Azores to Portugal to Gibraltar

  • Depart Ponta Delgada, Sao Miguel, Azores June 18, 2019
  • Arrive Lagos, Portugal June 24, 2019 
  • Depart Lagos, Portugal June 25, 2029
  • Arrive Gibraltar June 27, 2019
  • Total distance  1041 nm (861 nm to Lagos plus 180 nm to Gibraltar)
  • Average speed 6.4 kn
  • Max speed 10.1 kn
  • Max wind speed 22 kn

18 June Tues – Glenn and I had spent 15 wonderful days exploring these amazing islands (Azores posts coming) and it was time to prepare for the completion of our crossing to Europe. Several days earlier, Glenn awoke early to meet our friend Jim at the Ponta Delgada Airport.  He had flown in from Atlanta to join us for the passage to Lagos.  Waiting for a good weather window, had given me a few day to provision and prepare meals for the trip.  We also wanted to treat Jim to some of the highlights of Sao Miguel including a final dinner at A Tasca.

We cast off the dock lines at 4:45pm on the 18th and said good bye (for now) to the Azores. The skies were overcast and light rain fell and the forecast called for light winds for most of the passage.  Mira was loaded with fuel and could motor the entire way if necessary. Motored at 2200 rpm along southeast coast of Sao Miguel.

19 June Wed – Beautiful clear blue skies under high pressure ridge. Sunny. Cool. Dolphins visited us while we cruised in flat calm water over 16,500 feet deep.

And again… still averaging less than 6 knots one engine at a time. Current from the west helping boost our speed a bit. Pretty sunset. Beautiful orange Moon rising every night around 10:30pm. Made chicken a la king for dinner.

20 June Thur – Quiet day. No wind. Motoring. Sunny but not too hot. I sat on front of boat for awhile. Worked on blog posts from Azores and Portugal travel plans. Beef stroganoff for dinner. Wind picked up some in night. Only to 10 knots but bumpy.

21 June Fri – This morning wind continued to build and came close to 15kn by afternoon. Halfway day…Made brownies! Ran generator. Made water. Showers for all!. Changed from due east course to northeast towards Lagos. Making 7-8 knots headway. Should arrive Monday sometime. Wind averaged 18ish through the night. I started to feel queasy but heated up my boat lasagna for the guys.

22 June Sat – Winds averaging closer to 19kn. Seas calmer. Mix of sun and lots of clouds. I took a dose of stugeron to stave off seasickness for the first time in my life!  Nice sailing but seas are choppy. Still on target for Monday morning arrival. Made a sausage broccoli rice parmigiana cheese dish for dinner and afterwards we continued our Rummikub tournament. Got very cloudy and hazy around dinner. Winds died during night. Motor on at midnight. Quiet night. We spent most night watches watching shows or movies on the iPad.

23 June Sun – Still cloudy and a little rain. Winds only 5-6 knots. Seas still choppy. Boats beginning to appear. 1/2 mile miss of 900 ft tanker on my watch…. Busy busy. Ran generator.  Made banana bread and washed hair! Spa day for Pam. Winds still light. Sun peeking through. Both engines on – trying to make Lagos tomorrow morning. Glenn and I continued our dominoes tournament while Jim was heads down reading his textbook for a finance class he’s teaching. Glenn worked on watermaker projects.

Pizza & salad for dinner. More Rummikub variations. Little wind tonight. Cloudy and cool. Both engines still on. Main sail set tonight. Quiet night. Lots of dodging of huge ships in the traffic separation zones as we approached Sagres, Portugal.

24 June Mon – Mira’s first glimpse of mainland Europe – sighted Portugal around 8:15 am! And, also exciting, cell coverage by 730 am!! Beautiful cliff and beach view of Ponta da Piedade on our sail into Lagos. Arrived Marina Lagos and tied up to our berth at noon.

Had lunch in the marina at Quay Bar & Bistro. Jim took 3 pm train to Lisbon for flight home tomorrow. Naps then explored the town. Lagos is a great vacation beach town. Sunset drinks on rooftop of Lagos Avenida Hotel. Then more exploration. Dinner at Don Sebastiao in Old Town. Great recommendation by our son and his wife. Best swordfish ever!!

25 June Tues – Up early. Beautiful morning.  Wandered the streets of Lagos. Igresa de San Antonio, Pasteleria Gomba, Central Padareria, and Mercado Municipal. Bought awesome swordfish steaks.

Welcomed our returning crew, Diego, back on Mira at 11am. He would join us for the final passage to Gibraltar. Went to grocery. Dinner at Pizzaria in town. Left fuel dock by 815 pm. Light winds. Motoring on my watch. Lots of fishing boats milling around. No wind all night.

26 June Wed – My 6 am watch same. Still no wind. Fog rolled in for few hours in middle of day. Quiet night through the Straits. Tons of cargo and tanker ships but they stayed in their traffic lanes.

27 June Thurs – We stayed close to shore and rode the current and tide into Europe!  Arrived in dark and zigzagged through the cargo ships at anchor in the Bay of Algeciras and into the Queensway Quay Marina reception dock at 415 am in the fog!  Harbormaster knocked on hull at 8 am. Need to move to our berth soon. Moved to our convenient berth – close to restaurants!

Cleaned boat and galley. I walked through city to tourist office and supermarket. Dinner at The Landings on water.

28 June Fri – Walked to Main Street. Taxi tour to the Pillars of Hercules view of Morocco and Algeciras then St Michaels Cave, monkeys and then to Great Siege Tunnels for view over Spain and airport. Then walk through Main Street and Gibraltar museum then lunch at The Jury cafe and wine bar. Commonwealth Park.

Back to boat. Packing etc. After a final steak dinner aboard Mira, we said goodbye (for now) to Diego early the next morning as he began his long trip home to Argentina.  Diego was a great crew and had become a good friend. Glenn and I were finally in Europe and excited to hit the road exploring Portugal by car for a few weeks.

Pam 🙂


Mira takes a break in the Azores

In case you missed the previous post, my crew and I arrived into Horta, Faial, Azores, on May 15th after 14 days at sea on our sail eastward across the North Atlantic from Bermuda.

After a one day stop in Horta to celebrate the crossing, we departed at 11:00 for the 150 mile sail to the largest island in the Azores, Sao Miguel, home to the only international airport at Ponta Delgada. Winds were 20kn on the beam as we left Faial on the horizon.

The sail to Ponta Delgada was 24 hours overnight with gradually lightening winds. I had agreed to take one of the crew from sv Salana with us to Ponta Delgada as he and my crew all had flights to catch. Saul rewarded our generosity with some great drone footage of Mira as we sailed past the coast of Sao Miguel.

Arriving at noon the next day (May 17th) under light winds, we tied up at Marina Ponta Delgada and worked on cleaning and closing up Mira before the crew’s flights and my two week trip home.

Diego checking the rig.
Mira happy in her new temporary home at the Marina Ponta Delgada.

After a final dinner out at a traditional Azorean restaurant, I said farewell to Diego, Javier and Saul.  Mira had sailed 2,149 miles since departing Tortola in the BVIs on April 21st, and she (and I) needed a rest. Two days later (May 19th), I left Mira securely moored in the marina and caught my flight back to Atlanta.

I would be soon returning with Pam to sail and explore the Azores before we completed Leg 3 of our Atlantic crossing to mainland Europe. Look for our posts on our favorite Azores islands.